Monster Rock climbing area

Come Slay These Beasties!

Monster Traverses

Greg Brooks had a great day sending both long traverses, Insane Whisperings  from a Yuggothian Braincase (5.11b) and the pit's Lord of the Pit (5.11a).  They look and feel like night and day.  Insane Whisperings is easy on the hands and gets its grade largely on endurance.  A 5.10+ climber can have alot of fun working it.  Since few climbers in this area have the requisit endurance, this route is a great equalizer, and 5.12 climbers regularly fail to send it.  Here's Greg's FA onsight:

Erik Moore on Insane Whisperings:

Rachel Harris on one of the nine variations of Insane Whisperings, each exiting on various uproutes:

The Lord of the Pit is a whole different deal, with steeper feet hidden under a shelf, bigger holds, and gloomy lighting.  Here Greg flashed the first ascent of Lord of the Pit (5.11a), clipping ten biners and dodging topropes:

Alot of the action is shown below by Terence Smith.  The full photo sequence is available as a Word file download at

Switching back to Insane Whisperings, here's Blaine Burris, and then Eric Patrick, working its Fear Insanity variation (5.12a), eventually FA'd by Boone Speed and second-ascented by Paul Brady.

Torture-iffic and Wurm traverse extensions

Months after that activity, I bolted seven more chained biners around the above arete to protect two 30' traverse extensions "Torture-iffic" (5.11c?) and "Wurm" (5.11d?), having a total 16 chain permadraws to clip:

Torture-iffic again has no cruxes requiring power higher than 10d, so the entire 90' of climbing is probably workable bolt-to-bolt by 5.10+ climbers.  Torture-iffic is climbed with all holds on, generally keeping hands above the last 7 chained biners. 

(The above photo: Neil Higa, who got the FA despite very little 5.11 redpointing.  Considering the trouble Insane Whisperings (the 1st 9 bolts) has given strong climbers, this reporter's hat is way off to Neil and his smart, efficient projecting and the tremendous fight he put up.)

Wurm downclimbs before the 11th chain and then hands stay below the 11th through 16th biners, working the prominent horizontal crack/ledge shown in the above photo.

Mythology Wall Traverses

Torture-iffic and Wurm are protected to climb in both directions.  The five up-routes on Mythology Wall (left of the above arete) have alternate exits traveling backwards (left-to-right) on Torture-iffic or Wurm.  These nine variations all start with powerful campus moves to bad feet, to decent feet, to hellacious power-endurance traversing.

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