Monster Rock climbing area

Come Slay These Beasties!

Lovecraftian Madness Wall

Lovecraftian Madness Wall has a 5.7, four 5.10 routes/variations, multiple 5.11's and variations, and over ten routes and variations above 5.11.  It has our beloved nine-permadraw traverse crossing the 50' width of the wall (and its extension, totaling 16 bolts).  The 5.12/13 action starts at the hideous, unspeakable Nose of Nyarlathotep arete/bulge (notice the sinister monster face imprinted upon the cliff):

The wall in profile:




J.R.R. Tolkein Wall

J.R.R. Tolkein Wall is shown on the left side of the photo. (The right wall shows part of Horror Movie Wall).  J.R.R. Tolkein Wall has a couple 5.9's, a couple 5.10's, and a 5.6 that starts on the pointy "Earth Elemental" boulder.

From the right side:

Horror Movie Wall; Dungeons & Dragons Wall

The 50' Dungeons & Dragons Wall is at our feet; across the Pitfiend Pit lies the 40' Horror Movie Wall.  D&D Wall offers face climbing with small sections of overhang; Horror Movie Wall starts steep on the left at 3 routes, overhangs mildly for five routes, and ends in facing climbing ont the right at four routes.  It's been said almost every route on Horror Move Wall is stellar.

Looking into the pit from the landing below the ladders, the overhanging Horror Movie Wall is on the left.  A little piece of Dungeons & Dragons Wall appears on the right.  Deep into the pit, boulders jam the walls, but you can carefully scramble under/between them to access those climbs that are deep in the pit.

Here the camera is deep in the pit looking outward, so Horror Movie Wall is on the right (and D&D Wall on the left). 

Read the guidebook for beta on several useful belay stations on top of two boulders, under a ledge, and on a fixed line.  These two walls have a 5.7 with a 5.8 extension, a 5.8 route, a 5.8 variation, multiple 5.9's and 5.10's, some chimney stemming routes, six 5.11's and three 5.12's.

Mythology Wall

Mythology Wall has five future up-routes ranging 5.11a to 5.nasty.  I built a massively ugly mortared cheat stack under two of these routes.  All five have campus-ish starts onto tough footing, but even then, one starts at 10d/11a.

The uproutes' bolts were coordinated to also protect Torture-iffic (5.11c), an extension of the Insane Whisperings right-to-left traverse spanning Lovecraftian Madness Wall. Toreture-iffic runs 16 permdraws, likely the longest route in Central Texas. As of 1/1/2012, it's likely been sent only three people, not surprisingly, two of them from Colorado.  Texans are generally about power.  Long stuff like this stuffs us.

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